Raspberryfisher's Blog

I almost never give out an A+, let alone an A.  I had to think hard, why I would not give this DVD an A+, but it is excellent and deserves it …. Oliver Edwards’s Fly-Fishing DVD – Essential Skills – Czech Nymphing and Upstream Nymphing DVD.

The +s

• Depth of coverage – Insects, Tying, the Leader and Fishing.
• Presentation Quality – Clarity and the time is well used.
• Quality of Instruction, including quality of photography.

The -s, trivia.

• All leader setups were decribe well, but not all illustrated.
• Anythign nymphyinf technique missing, the North American indicator.

I also appreciate the updates to his tying techniques, as I to had many problems locking down the Partridge as legs for the Rhyacophila Larva.  (He acknowledge many people did too!). If you buy the DVD, order a few sample flies as references (for tyers, order two as a minimum, allowing you to cut and study the parts of one.)

Its value is good, for fishing and-or tying for trout.  Will I by another, absolutely, when my budget allows me to.

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As discussed earlier, Kaufmann’s Tying Nymph provides fine illustrations to develop techniques for fly-tying nymphs. Though, I do note that many of the flies are tied heavier (thicker) than my liking.

One of the unique techniques you should explore, tying and sculpting Marabou, as illustrated with the Janssen’s Dragonfly Nymph. I use different marabou colours of similar tonality to provide a sense of real body. When scupting, keep in mind the marabou will flatten, and the shape will become sleeker in water.

To assist during the tie in, lightly dampen the marabou.

There is one improvement I have yet to test, but considering many flies will ride hook-up, so should I not tie the fly with the body “underneath”.

In my previous post about a high-stick nymph rig for Trout, it is noted that I often use a short section of high visibility monofilament in the leader to help track the rig, such as Amnesia 20#.  Another possibility, which I have not yet tried, but worth looking at is Rio’s Nymph Shock Tippet.

Last note, for Steelhead I use a similar rig, but I pre-make the indicators in 12″, 24″ and 36″ sections. Each section has small loops that I tied on. The indicator is the first step after the fly-line and I select the length most suitable for the pool that I am fishing. What is most suitable? I want the junction between the leader and indicator to ride a foot above the water as the fly tumbles along the bottom of the pool, and thus it also functions as a depth guage to.

Q: Do I use Slinky Rigs for Steelhead? A: Yes

My last fly to showcase my recommended nymph fly-tying books. This (and many more not shown) are part of my small fly box, inspired by Ed Engle’s book ‘Tying Small Flies’.

My suggestions:

• Great opportunity to make slim bodlies, do so.
• Exploit the colour range, but I do like Black and Copper.
• Try Uni’s Glo Products - Thread and Yarn.
• Fish under a dry fly.

Learn to tie very small flies, as the lessons learnt on thread and thread control can be used for all ties.

The previous 7 posts have been a collection of flies, with a reference to fly-tying books-DVDs that I have recommended.  Now, pulling this flies together into a actual setup (rig) is the following  late summer rigging, for close-in high-stick (czech style) nymphing.  Given this technique, I recommend a long rod (10′) with a moderate action. My preference is an Scott ARC G1007-4 (10′  7 wt  4 piece from Scott), and though discontinued, there are other solutions available.

7wt may seem large, but it handle the setup with authority, and a delicate cast is not the primary requirement.

I do not use a float or indicator, but in lieu of a breader leader, I will use a bright red Amnesia (20-25#) at the start of the leader for 18-24″, followed by Maixma (15# Green) for 24-36″.  Very little of the fly line is out the top guide.

Note the weighted fly is on the point fly only, like a weighted woven czech nymph , cased caddis or one of the many bead-head nymphs out there..

The middle fly is not weighted, it also can be a woven nymph, caddis, partridge wet-fly or a general emerger such as a Whitlock’s Squirrel Nymph.

The dropper (top) is a drowned dry fly, like an ant, a wet fly,  Caddis Dry Fly or POPA Caddis.

As far a presentation, cast slightly upstream. Mend to get the point to bounce the bottom, and drift down. Ideally, the dropper fly drowns, and as the drift continues, lower your rod and may even release a little line.

Continue the drift into a swing. Once the swing is completed, setup for the next cast and try again.

My only compliant, several of the waters I fish do not allow for multiple fly rigs.

Another Oliver Edwards’ Pattern from my references, a POPA Caddis, an imitation of a fly returning to the stream, diving and laying eggs onto the stream bed.

Why this nymph?

1. It is simple and it should remain simple.
2. Simply, it sinks fast.
3. Two tone opportunities.

My other recommendation, remember that this hook rides up, so tie the under-belly colour on the outer radius.

I usually do not tie blue and yellow, as illustrated, but good combinations are Dark-Green/Light-Green, Black/Any-Colour, Green/Yellow.  I would think two-tone browns and olives would also work, but have not tried it.

As far as materials, I use Wool, Antron and Synthetic Floss, typically on a Size 8 Deep Curve Hook, such as a Partridge Czech 8 Hook, as shown above. Just remember, the colour of your body will change when it gets wet, so test your materials underwater, before you tie a dozen.

Experiement with wire ribbing and the fullness (thickness) of the woven yarn.  You can add weight, but you must have a smooth underbody.

And the best way to learn how to tie this nymph, the Oliver Edwards DVD, as referenced below, and practice. Including, especially, tieing off at the heat.  Keep it simple.

This is a close-up of the Insult Variant, as discussed in the previous post. Given this is not a well documented pattern, and one that has landed me a few steelhead in winter, I thought a close-up is well deserved.  The previous post includes the recipe, so what else can I say:

• The head is a combination of deer hair and beads on a monofilament tag (with a burnt end).
• I do use pink and yellow beads too, but I do gravitate to a two tone green head.
• Keep the head and legs on top.
• Keep the body in front of the point.
• Taper the underbody with thread.
• Weight is an option.
• I often use glue on the body (tacky) to secure the peacock herl, but you can also use wire to re-enforce the herl.

Like all nymphs, it should be simple, quick to tie and a fly you are willing to lose on the bottom.  Three patterns worth noting, with the first two being ”quick” ties:

• Oliver Edwards’ Peeping Caddis (from his Masterclass Book)
• Variant on Poul Jorgensen’s the Insult (add beads and deer hair)
• Ian James’ Crunchy Caddis

As illustrated in Oliver Edwards’ Masterclass book, the Peeping Caddis is a general recipe and variations are only limited by your imagination and effort. Change the colour of the body, the material, the head colour, et cetera.  My only added advice, after examing the many cased bodies in the river, keep the body thin with a taper to the nymph’s rear.

Of these references, the only “hard to find” pattern is the variant of the Insult, (more to be posted in the future), but it is

• Slight Curved Hook, such as a TMC 200R (straight is okay).
• Black Thread.
• At Hook Bend, used Burnt Mono to hold 2 Small Beads for a head (above and behind the hook).
• Add Deer Hair for Legs.
• Using Thread, create a taper body, down to the hook eye.
• Create a body using Peacock Herl.

You may use glue as an underbody, thread, mono or copper ribbing to make the body more robust.

Ian James’ Crunchy Caddis has a substantial body, and thus slower to get to the bottom, it is often used in slower shallow water for trout, or with added weight.

Once you done these, look to Oliver Edwards’ Dry Caddis and Popa Caddis, and with a Polish-Czech nymph, you have this family of insects covered.