Raspberryfisher's Blog

I have added to my photolibrary a SBS (Step-By-Step) with notes, on my tying a Spectral Spider.

Please note that I have posted some earlier notes and observations for those who may be interested in the details of the recipe and construction (original and-or mine), which is link to a photograph of a Walt Johnson Spectral Spider, my first  go, or a critical review.

Some additional notes:

• I have access to a real Asian Kingfisher now, which I am using for the cheeks .
• I have looked for craft fur. I did not find the spectrum that I like at a Craft Store, I do believe that Rainy’s Craft Fur would be a good use. Rather than spending the 20+ USD for more material, I kept to the using Arctic Fox.

Image provided by Ralf Kroning, here is an image of a Walt Johnson tied Spectral Spider. In our dialogue about Walt, we are in agreement that Walt was an adaptive tyer and flies reflect what materials were available at that time.

Of interest to me, relative to my earlier work and review, is that the wing has Cerise and Red. Early study said Cerise or Red. Whether it was the hook or pattern, this is a pattern that evolved slowly over a couple of decades.

This critical review is being presented as a method of analysis, and should not be read as a negative attack.

Of the 3 sources I have on the Spectrial Spider, the most informative is from Trey Combs Steel Head Fly Fishing – Tackle and Techniques, The Great Rivers, The Anglers and Their Fly Patterns. In this book, Trey spends a few pages on Walt Johnson with 2/3s of a page on the Spectral Spider.

The listed recipe

• Hook: Partridge Single Wilson (4x long)
• Tail: Fluorescent Yellow Antron nylon fibers or any acrylic fake fur.
• Body: Pearlescent mylar ribbed with flat silver tinsel.
• Wing: Layered from the bottom: cerise, orange, green and blue Antron nylton in very small bunches. One cream badger hackle is set lengthwise down the hook shank on each side.
• Hackle: Several wraps of stiff grizzly hackle before over-wrapping spider-fashion with barred mallard flank that extended to the end of the body.
• Cheeks: Blue chatterer or kingfisher-blue back feathers.

In the subsequent text, I extracted the following

“Walt found his inspiration for the Spectral Spider in Jenning’s Lord Iris, but the subtle flash and movement of Antron nylon incorporated into the carefully stacked wing, and the veiling of the barred mallard, produce a far more lifelike baitfish imitiation.”

and as it pertains to purpose and effect

“It as originally intended for sea-run cutthroat … designed to be stripped back on the swim. ‘The first time I ever fished the pattern, those big cutthroats  wouldn’t leave it alone. They would come out of bush piles and just nail it. The beauty f the it was that I could fish ot dry, just under the surface or sunk’”.

The next paragraph continues how Walt found to be effective with Steelhead, comcluding with “He’s been using the Spectral Spider in summer-run steelhead ever since.”

Moving to Bob Veverka;s Book Spey Flies and How to Fish Them.  Bob lists a recipe, and the following notable difference are noted.

• Hook: Size 3 Gold Alec Jackson Spey Fly Hook
• Body: Pearlescent Mylar (no ribbing).

In the body of the Veverka’s book, there is a photograph of Walt Johnson flies, presumably tied by Bob. With the exception of the grizzly hackle, it appears to hold true to the recipe in the book.

Note to John Shewey’s Book “Spey Flies and Dee Flies”, John devotes some copy to Walt. Though, the Spectral Spider is not listed, I have the following observations.

• Refer to his patterns are “tied on hooks no larger than size 2“
• All hooks in his patterns are listed as Partrdige Single Wilson, but yet samples provided by Walt in in the 1990s, presumably for framing are on Gold Alec Jackson Spey Hooks.

Moving to my last reference, “John Shewey’s Steelhead Flies”, which includes a recipe and a fly listed as being tied by Walt. Relating back to the recipe as in Trey’s book, here are the notable differences:

• Hook: Alex Jackson Spey Hook, Gold
• Body: Silver Tinsel
• Collar: Does not include a grizzly hackle.
• Topping: GP Crest, ligthened and dyed sky blue.
• Wing Colours: Fl Red, Orange, Bright Green, Bright Blue 

and in review of the picture, the collar extends well beyond the hook.

So how does this hold against my interpretation.

• Hook and Body: We seen a transition from a Black Salmon Hook (light wire (I believe the Wilson’s are light wire)) to a Gold Alec Jackson Spey in the later years. Given his use of mylar to silver tinsel, the use of a Silver AJ Spey eliminating the tinsel and putting the yellow in the wing (versus tail) could be considered a viable-minor conversion.
• Wing: Use of Arctic Fox versus Antron is probably the most signifiant (major) conversion, given the intent to play with light transmission. Acknowledging the “spectral intent”, I would suggest stacking of the wing can be from Red (under) to Orange to Yellow to Green and Blue is a reasonable variance.
• Collar: Cannot offer a comment on using stiff grizzly under the mallard, but I can see this harm an effective placement of the cheeks, unless pinched back hard, which I would ask why do it?

I think once I get some better mallard, I will try a verson with antron wing, but follow the spectrum as noted above. (Oh yea > light blue antron is not a common material, so it may be some time before I assemble the materials to do an antron wing).

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Wow, it took me several attempts to get what I would accept, but here it is.

Lets acknowledge Walt Johnson who is credited for this design, and recipes published by Bob Veverka and John Shewey. Now, I will note that there are differences with these recipes, and this is my interpretation.

The recipe, Wilson’s variant:

• Hook: Alec Jackson Spey Silver in Size 3.
• Thread: White Danville Flymaster 6/0.
• Tail: None
• Body: None
• Wing: Arctic Fur, stacked with Red, Orange, Green and Kingfisher Blue.
• Throat: Arctic Fur, Yellow
• Side: Thin Silver Badger.
• Collar: Mallard Flank.
• Cheeks: Artifical Kingfisher.

My notes, lessons and recommendations:

• Recipe: There are several recipes, with many similarities and small differences.  Given the greatest and earliest known discussion is in Trey Combs’ “Steelhead Fly Fishing” Book, I will be using this reference as my master for the following.
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• Hook Size: AJ Spey 3 > I started with a AJ 1.5 and simply (after some tries) I came to the conclusion is was too big. Doing a little more research, I came across a reference that Walt typically tied on hooks less than size 2 (Partridge). Given this and some work, a good size is an AJ Size 3.
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• Hook Model: AJ Spey in Silver > References indicate that Walt used Partrdige Salmon Hook (Black), but most modern day interpretations or samples from Walt are on AJ Spey Hooks in Gold. Noting that one recipe referenced a silver body, I went to a silver hook (I also do not keep “gold” hooks).  Silver compliments the rainbow colour pattern to and does reflect a Wilson (me) style – minimalist body (though a gold hook to emphasis the yellow would be a fine choice).
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• Tail and Body: Some recipes refers to a yellow tail and-or silver tinsel-mylar (maybe under white floss) body. Acknowledging my minimalist tendancies, I moved the yellow tail to the under body.  As stated above, in keeping in my minimalist style, I transition the body to the silver hook itself.
  • 20120217 Update: I further migrate the yellow up the hook, and has become a part of wing.
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• Wing: Arctic Fox – Pink, Red, Yellow, Chartreuse, Kingfisher Blue >
  • This was my fly to experiment, evaluate and learn how to use Arctic Fox Tail. You can acquire patches in brilliant colours. What did I learn? Arctic Fox has a usable mix of very long guard hairs and impressionistic fur which can be used, but you need to decide what look you want and be very aggressive in pruning to the effect you want. In this case, I was aggressive in thinning out guard hairs, maintain the length I wanted and keep each colour
  • All of the recipes refer to synthetics – Craft Yarn or Antron. I have not found Antron in the desired spectrum, nor Craft Yarn (I am sure it exists). Rainy does have a Craft Fur in the appropriate colours, but rather than put out another 20-30USD for more material, currently, I am keeping to Arctic Fox.
  • Colour names are not an accurate reflection of the hue of a material, nor can be carried over from one product to another. Then there are changes from dye-lot to dye-lot, different call-outs in recipes, and variations given the substrate.  What I am using is 
    • Cerise > Eumer Arctic Tail – Pink (1908)
    • Orange > Using Eumer Arctic Tail – Red (1968)
    • Flourescent Yellow > Eumer Arctic Tail - Yellow (1911)
    • Green > Eumer Arctic Tail – Chartreuse (1902)
    • Blue >Eumer Arctic Tail – Kingfisher Blue (1913)
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• Side wing: Silver Badger > No change, keep it small and the tip ends at the bend.
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• Collar: Mallard > My challenge was the Mallard Flank that I had that was long enough had stems to thick for a nice head, so I eventually used a dubbing loop (and no grizzly hackle). 
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• Overwing: None > There was a recipe, not Trey’s, for a light blue dyed GP Crest. My attempts to bleach a GP did not produce any positive results that would enable a light blue crest.  
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• Cheek: Dyed Imitation Kingfisher > My imitation has a greater and darker saturation than the define natural of Blue Chatterer or Kingfisher-Blue.

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In my earlier post on Hair wings, I looked at the different types of hair available and offerred my verdict – yes to Deer Bucktail and Polar Bear. There were a few hairs that I did not have, nor yet evaluated it, and as such I present an update with Elk Hock and Moose.

One key element of these two samples, it is available in natural colour, and occassionaly died. Unlike Bucktail, there are no choices for colour patches, unless you do the bleaching and dying yourself.  As most patterns are bassed on a black, white or colourful hairwing (not tan), there are few established patterns that would exploited the natural tome of Elk or Moose. In looking at the natural tones, I decided to convert a Lady Caroline into a Hairwing.

Recipes Notes:

• Thread: Danville 6/0 FlyMaster – Black
• Hook: Partridge CS42 Size 2 – I really like this hook!
• Tail: Golden Pheasant Red Neck Fibers, stripped and bunched.
• Ribbing: Lagartun Gold Flat and Oval. I experiment on sizes and placement Though a Lady Caroline calls for the Oval to be centered between the Flat Wraps, I prefer ajoinment placement, as illustrated with the last sample (Moose).
• Body: A mix of Squirrel and SLF – Olive Brown, Dark Brown and Red (dominant to accented, respectively)
• Hackle: Tied in at the half on the tip – Whiting Spey Rooser Cape, a Dark Variant with gold tips. The Elk samples were tied with a single hackle (recommended) and the Moose with two (a little heavy).
• Collar: Golden Pheasant Red Flank.

Elk Hock, but with some secondary hairs in-place (and a little under-fur).  Though, I did remove a substantive amount of underfur, as I tried to keep some of the secondary hairs, which leaved a lot of underfur that may stacking difficult.  Compresses well, but does flair.

Elk Hock, with just the long dark guard hairs. Nice tone, compressess well and enables a small head. If you want a medium dun, this is a good hair.

Moose is a still fiber with an aggressive taper and diverse set of tones from white to black. It compresses sufficienctly to secure, but with its taper, it is difficult to get a small head. It is a fly I would fish with confidence.

In creating the various spade variants this fall, I experimented and had to improve my hair wing technique. My technique is definitely improving (I trim before I set and secure the wing – Flush Cut), but also went through different materials > Soft hair that will compress is the best for a secure head.

Using John Shewey’s “un-scientific ranking”, from softest to hardest, here are my observations:

1. Arctic Fox Tail – 20111207 Update:  Much of the Arctic Fox being prepared is for tube flies and the like – soft and impressionistic with long guard guards - and thus, arguably an alternative to spey hackles and dubbing.  Though the guards hairs are fine, I contend the magic lies in the soft hair closer to the tail, and the decision is – do you keep the long hairs in?  Bucktail makes a good conventional wing, but Arctic Fox makes a good soft wing (and available in many bright colours). Use sparingly, and I give an A.
2. Deer Hair Body - All of my deer body hair has been purchased for trout flies or bass poppers, so much of it is either too short or flairs too well for a good low set wing. Same can be said for Caribou, which is also too fragile in this application. Given the primary market supply is for body deer hair is trout and bass flies, suggest one uses Deer Bucktail instead (unless you want flaired and-or short wings). C.
3. Bucktail, Bottom End – Stacks well, holds nicely and now is my default hair wing material. A+
4. Skunk – Have no samples too work with. NR
5. Gray Fox – Have no samples too work with. NR
6. Elk Body Hair – Great mid-brown natural tone with light tips, but selecting the right size clump is very important (smaller than you think) to set and secure a good wing. Material to use, if you want that brown tone (currently not me). B-
7. Bucktail, Top End – A little more uniform than the bottom end, works fine, but I am working my way from the base of the tail first. A-
8. Kid Goat Hair – My sample is  long, fine and difficult to stack. More suited for long hair body flies, like those of Dave Nelson, posted earlier ot variants og the Intruder. For a standard wing, I give it a D.
9. Calf Tail - Can be dyed brilliant, but does stack or not hold onto the hook well. Texture is “crinkly”, and I now use it as an accent only.  It is unlikely, I will buy anymore and will use artctic fox or deer, depending upon desired effect. Calf Body Hair (my samples) too short for wings. Not want I want, and suggest Arctic Fox. C.
10. Elk Hock - 20111205 Update - If you want the lighter dun and use Elk, then use the Elk Body Hair above (less underfur), but you have to be aware-control the amount of flair you want. The longer dark guard hairs do make a good natural wing, but do you have a pattern that needs this colouration (most wet flies patterns do not). B+
    1. Moose - 20111205 Update - Provides for a mix of black, white, browns and duns, so has a natural variation, but it has an aggressive taper and stiff, which makes a good wing, but a large head. B
11. Polar Hair – Yes, I have polar hair and what a great accent it is!  A++
12. Black Bear – Looks great, but hard to get a good patch (limited hairs versus underfur) and secure. Effort to use Black Bear has stopped, and unless you sight buy a great patch, do not bother. D
13. Squirrel Tail – Decided I am not fond of the dyed variants, but do really like the look of the natural tails. It is important to tie in small clumps, for a secure wing or be prepare to secure the butts under the hook (Ed Hass Technique) or along the body (Reverse Wing).  B for the Natural Grey Tails and a C- for the dyed tails.

Quality and suitability of any hair is a function of the animal, time and method of “harvesting” and handling by us, so the applicability of the above observations will depend upon what you have.  Unfortunately, I do not live near a good fly-tying store, much of my collection was mail-ordered from who I can find.  With time, I have had success and some failures, but also taken time and practice to recognize what is good and bad.

Starting over, what would I buy – Bucktail, Arctic Fox and Polar Bear.  Would consider Elk Hock and a natural squirrel tail.

This is as much as a record for me, as it is to help others.

 A Black Demon with Bucktail Deer Hair Wing.

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On a Type 3 line or intermediate,with Water Temp at 48F and flow at 350 CFS.

and a Lady Caroline

My attempt to try new techniques and materials, and further my skills, preference and style, using the Black Demon pattern as the standard. This note is as much for me, to assist me with future ties.

Lets start, what is my definition of a black demon? A derivative of the New Zealand Golden Demon, which in itself seems to a variant of the Dunkeld.

1. Dunkeld is British-Irish Wet with:
a. Tail: Golden Pheasant Crest
b. Body: Gold Tinsel
c. Body Hackle: Orange Rooster
d. Wing: Bronze Mallard
e. Cheeks: Jungle Cock.

2. Golden Demon, the Orange Rooster is tied in as a collar.
a. Tail: Golden Pheasant Crest
b. Body: Gold Tinsel
c. Collar: Orange Rooster
d. Wing: Bronze Mallard
e. Cheeks: Jungle Cock.

3. And the black demon, the body is primarily black:
a. Tail: Golden Pheasant Crest
b. Body: Black Floss with Tinsel
c. Wing: Bronze Mallard
d. Collar: Orange Rooster
e. Cheeks: Jungle Cock.

Now the visual study of the form begins.

Golden Demon

What works for me?

• Hook: Partridge CS42 (2)
• Collar: Full, with tips between bard and point.
• Jungle Cock: Small and pointing to point.
• Looks: After tying many black demons, I am appreciating the glow from the gold tinsel body.

What needs improvement?

• Minor: Tail (a little shorter – 20%) and stacking.
• Wing: To large on the far side (did not pretty it up for the picture, it was pushed down).
  

The Black Demon – Bronze Mallard Wing

What works?

• I really like it!
• Hook: Daiichi 2441 (2)

What could be improved?

• A thicker tail.

Black Demon – Bronze Mallard Spey

Changes from Bronze Mallard:

• Hook: Alec Jackson Spey 2051 (1.5)
• Hackle: Whiting Spey Hackle, tied in half-way at the base.
• Rib: Counter Rib
• Collar: Orange Guinea
• Wing: Effort to tie in Bronze Mallard as far into the dark as I could.

I have three spools of marked as Medium Largatun Flat Silver Tinsel, exactly the same, two are embossed and one is not.  I prefer the plain tinsel.

What do I Like?

• Proportions are good.
• Hook: Large and sleek.
• Tail: Well stacked.
• Wing: Mounted Low, clean and ends at the barb.
• Head: Short (my preference)

What could be improved? (Shows promise, but wings needs works! often it slips-frays at the end.)

• Tie the Hackle in my the tip, and allow it flow past the bend.
• Black Collar for contrast.
• Another coat of head cement.

Black Demon – Hackle Tip Wings

Changes from Bronze Mallard Spey:

• Hook: Daiichi 2441 (2)
• Hackle Tips added, but mounted high.
• Body: Front third is black seal.
• Hackle: Mounted by stem & tip wrapped forward.Checks: Mounted High.

What do I like?

• Definite yes!  Wrap Hackle from full base to the tip!
• Front third with Black Seal

I am still debating on the best order for the body, when the front is dubbing.  Floss is first, but then what?  Dub then tinsel?  Or Tinsel, then dub?  I see some more experiments. (Note: Medium Flat Tinsel broke on wrapping and was thus removed.)

Change next time?

• Black Collar.
• Lower Hackle Tips. (Hackle Tips were initially mounted high with the concern that it hide the body and tinsel, with the flat tinsel breaking and on review of the complete fly, this was not a comprise I wanted).
• Tilt Jungle Cock Down.

With improvements in wing mounting >

Black Demon – Goose Wing

Changes from Hackle Tip (besides the wing):

• Ribbing: Just the Oval, as a counter rib.
• Orange Seal for front third of the body.
• Black Collar.
• Hook: Partridge CS10/1 (2)

Likes!

• Body with simple ribbing and black collar.
• Yes, bring the wing tips to the bend.

Improvements?

• Smaller hackle and return to black seal front.
• Mount wings lower.
• Go back to the black seal.
• Prefer the AJ 2051 Hooks.Note: This is my first fly using goose for wings.  As I did the whip finish, I went to far back and pulled down the left side.

Taking a break and the above lessons, I did an “Orange Top” on a AJ 2051 (3)

I like it!

And now for the west coast hair wings.

Hair wing 1 – Sparse

Now, I tried many different hairs, Black Bear, Squirrel, Calf Tail and Deer Bucktail, and different techniques, I have settle on Deer Hair with Calf Tail as an acceptable alternative.  And while I recognize the Ed Haas Reverse Wing, for a floss body, I kept to a simple trimmed top mount.

Referencing the Black Demon Bronze Mallard Wet above, the changes are:

• Hair wing, and illustrated below is squirrel.
• Hook: Daiichi 2441 (4)

And though I like the body, there are several improvements to be considered:

• Collar (it was intentional) is too thin.
• Prefer the Jungle Cock to point down.

So, Hair Wing 2 with Deer Hair.

And last, my affinity for Spades on an AJ Steelhead Iron (5) with a calf tail wing.

Did I want the collar to be as long as the wing (as above hair-wing), currently, I say not.

D on a cold September Labour Day

Referencing John Shewey’s Steelhead Flies Book, the Golden Demon (or is it Gold Demon) originate out of New Zealand as a trout fly with Bronze Mallard wing. So rather than do the hair wing, common in the US West, I went with a Bronze Mallard.

I am starting to prefer a short tail, similar to the stlye of Brad Burden, as such, this tail is longer than I would like. I have tried stacking the Golden Pheasant Crest, but I am not doing it well.

The wing is little to thick on the far side, and this is the first time I used Jungle Cock. Jungle Cock is typically seen in an upward orientation, but with the BM wing, it did not look right, so after some experimentation, I placed the checks low.

My objective is to migrate and experiment with the Black Demon, but I thought I would start with a conversion from the original using a Partrdige CS42 (2) Hook. I also need practise using Bronze Mallard.

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Recipes and notes appear after each image. At the end of the blog, there are some acknowledgements, who probably are not aware they inspired or help me.

With humour and not hubris > I am a newbie at Spey flies, but being tying trout and bass flies for years.  I am borderline prefectionist, so will study something and mentally tie it for weeks-months-seasons before I do it. (I also count backwards in Prime Numbers, if and when I excercise — 199, 197, 193, et cetera …. yes, there are places for me to live in, but I do not have to, as I am not dangerous to other people).

With my long preparation to do spey flies and recent start, I have developed some preferences, which usually show in the following:

• I tie in 3s.  Often 3 flies in a single pattern, then move to the next.  By perchance, there are 9 patterns here (3×3), so there are 27 flies – 3x3x3.  Hmmm.
• I wrap in 3s, allowing me to control and manage any back wraps to secure tinsel, floss without creating bulk.  (Back-wrapping? My term, but best explain, by example:  Secure the floss with 3 wraps, wrap the down and back over itself. When you return to the origin, the thread, reverse 2 (or even 3) wraps and secure floss with 3 wraps.)
• My thread of choice is Danville Flymaster (6/0) and take the time to reverse spin to keep the thread flat.
• The flies are for fishing, so I prefer the heads set back and the bodies in front of the point. Small heads are nice, but secure is more important.
• I am more likely too fish a black or olive fly first, but will move to bright flies.
• Use Cellire varnish to finish the head (I need to get some thinner).

The flies are illustrated in the order of tying and learning.

I have documented my herl rope technqiue on Picasa, but it is just taking what I learnt in reading John Shewey’s Book on Steelhead flies.  I want to emphasis though, use oval tinsel (not wire), rubber jaw hackle pliers and get full ostrich herls.

First Spade > Black and Peacock

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (8)
• Tail: Moose
• Tag: 3 turns Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine – Silver
• Rear Body (1/3): Peacock Herl Rope
• Front Body (2/3): Black Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Grizzly Hen
• Second Collar: Black Hen

Notes:

This set (of 3) represent my first try at Spades, and thus has the greatest variation across the set. My starting point was a photograph of a Bob Armold Spade and a Fancy Spade by Alec Jackson published in Kent Helvie’s Book > Steelhead Fly Tying Guide.

Bob’s fly used Deer Hair for the tail, black chenile and a grizzly collar.

Alec’s material list is Red Hackle fibers for the tail, Peacock for the rear body and Ostrich in the front with stiff black cock hackle for a collar.

Other than being limited to what was available, this is why I did what I did.

• When I sit at the vise, there is a tendancy to add more material than I need, so as the set progresses, I traditionally tie a cleaner-thinner fly.
• I like Dark Moose for tails, it has a multi-tonal look (as it is not dyed), stiff and does not flare
• The silver tag is a perference.
• The body is effectively copying Alec Jackson’s.
• When I added the grizzly hackle, the fly brigthen too much.  So then, I added a front black hen saddle to reduce the ‘brightness’, but allow the white tips to come through.

What would I change from the above?

• Given the bulk of the fly, move to a Steelhead Iron Hook, Size 5.
• Move the tail up and eye back.
• 1 less wrap of both collars and also consider Guinea, Silver Badger Hen, or a Dark Speckled Hen.

Second – A Skunk Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (10)
• Tag: 3 turns Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine – Silver (should be 3)
• Tag: Red Uni-Stretch
• Rear Body (1/4): Green Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (3/4): Black Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Fine Black Hen
• Second Collar: Guinea
• Wing: Polar Bear

Notes:

With the first set out the way and getting a hang of the ‘rope’, I was ready to take a new challenge. At the same time, Frenchcaster on Spey-Pages did several variants based on the Skunk, so I decided to create this Skunk variants.  With this, search my materials for black and white, and assemble.

Frenchcaster (Andreas) used a little green, which is atypical for a skunk, but I kept with this.

I was happy in that I kept it sparse, the guinea added a nice touch and the polar wing is great.

Is there anything I would different or consider > replace the red floss tag with a dyed red golden pheasant crest tail (extend the body too).  This variant with the red floss tag is fine to my eye, but a red tail would also be fine.

Oh yes, to help catch the floss, I also include a floss tag with some oval tinsel.

Third – A Green Butt Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (8)
• Tag: 5 turns Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine – Silver (yes, I meant 5)
• Tag: Green Uni-Stretch
• Rear Body (1/2): Green Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (1/2): Black Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Fine Black Hen
• Second Collar: Guinea
• Wing: Polar Bear

Notes:

Happy with the spare skunk, guinea and polar bear, I went to this green butt, with two changes: 5 wraps with the oval and body portions gave greater emphasis to the green ostrich. Given the green floss, I could have kept the body a dominant black or gone with a tinsel tag and a small tail like the ninth – Painter’s Brush with the GP Tail.

Fourth – An Olive Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (10)
• Tag: 3 turns Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine – Silver
• Rear Body (1/4): Black Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (3/4): Olive Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Grizzly
• Second Collar: Guinea, dyed a dirty red (not the best of my materials)

Notes:

This is a colour combination I like to fish with, colour but not in your face. I wanted more body, thus removed the floss tag and kept it sparse.  I could have done a better head finish and intentionally kept away from a polar bear wing too keep it more mute.

Fifth – Green Chartreuse Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (10)
• Tag: 3 turns Lagartun Oval X-Strong Fine – Silver
• Rear Body (1/4): Yellow Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (3/4): Chartreuse Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Guinea
• Second Collar: Chartreuse Hen

Notes:

In your face colouring and it delivers.

Sixth – Orange Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Partridge Bartlett CS10/1 (10)
• Tip: Lagartun Medium Flat Tinsel  - Silver
• Rear Body (<1/4): Yellow Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (3/4>): Orange Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: White Hen
• Second Collar: Yellow Hen

Notes:

For skill and a comparison against the Chartreuse Spade, moved to tinsel tag .

Seventh – Winter’s Hope Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Daiichi Steelhead Iron (7)
• Tip: Lagartun Medium Flat Tinsel  - Silver
• Rear Body (1/3): Yellow Ostrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (2/3): Orange Ostrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Light Blue Hen
• Second Collar: Purple Hen

Notes:

Now there was a pause, as I needed to find-create the right light turquoise. I was disappointment with the Venaird that I had, and bought several turquoise and light blue dyes from ProChem, Dharma and Jacquard. All of them nice, but I settle on a light dye using the Jacquard 624.

I moved to a heavy spey hook, seeing this as an in-your winter fly.

As far as the collars are concern, I recommend to keep the second collar thinner (than the first), to let the inner collar come through.

Eigth-th – Painter’s Brush Spade

The recipe:

• Hook: Daiichi Steelhead Iron (5)
• Tip: Lagartun Medium Flat Tinsel  - Silver
• Rear Body (1/3): OrangeOstrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (2/3): RedOstrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Purple Hen
• Second Collar: Light Blue Dyed White Pheasant

Notes:

So the Winter’s  Hope and Painter’s Brush come from the mind-vise-pallete of Bill McMillan. To enable a greater sense of glow and veil, I increase the hook to allow the tinsel to come out and then dyed a white pheasant feather that light turquise blue with the intent it would overflow the hook.  It was becoming a hybrid between a spade and a spider.

I am quite happy with this fly.

Ninth – Painters Brush Spade with GP Crest

The recipe:

• Hook: Daiichi Steelhead Iron (5)
• Tip: Lagartun Medium Flat Tinsel  - Silver
• Tail: Golden Pheasant Crest
• Rear Body (1/3): OrangeOstrich Herl Rope
• Front Body (2/3): RedOstrich Herl Rope
• First Collar: Purple Hen
• Second Collar: Light Blue Hen

Notes:

As I was cleaning up and look back at the spades in Kent Helvie’s book, I realized how much I ignored the tail. Yes, I prefer a finer and cleaner tail, but should I have omitted. In looking at the colours, I also thought how a GP Crest would compliment the colours, and thus came this variant.

I kept to hen collars (reducing the previous veil), so as the tail would come out.

Acknowledgements

Bob Arnold the originator of the Spade, as a style.

Though this is the first time I have tied in this style, it has taken me some time to get here.  It started with seeing the Alec Jackson’s Spades in Kent Helvie’s Book on Steelhead Flies, but it took me a longtime to understand the technique for the body. Reading from John Shewey how Alec created a feather rope using Lagartun Oval, I was able to advance.

As for the colours, the Orange and Chartreuse variants evolve from Rick Kutich’s Great Lakes Steelhead Book and Bill McMillan’s colours taken from many resources.  The colouring is from my dying, with pointer’s from Speypages flytyer.

All mistakes are of my origin.

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