Raspberryfisher's Blog

notes on fishing & travel

Archive for the ‘Bahamas’ Category

TFO BVK 8wt Bonefish Line Match

leave a comment »

Quick Answer > Airflo Short Clear Tip 8wt defaulting to a short leader (7.5′), used when I want a little more punch into the wind.

airflo clear tip

Wow, it appears I never “blogged” that I built-assembled a TFO BVK 8wt. It is a nice fast rod, but with less feeling that my Scott Meridian, so it became my “backup rod” after I bought the Scott.

The TFO BVK is known as a good fast rod that may benefit from over-lining that is low cost – with complaints on cheap components guides and cork. So I acquired a blank 4+ years ago and put on quality single foot strippers-guides and turned some quality cork. It is a fine rod that has landed some large bonefish.

Caveat emptor > I am sure there is variability in line and rod construction, which contributes to the other variable, what do you (I) prefer may not produce the same results. So mileage will vary with user.

My testing and ranking, in order of preference (highest to acceptable):

  1. Airflo Clear Tip 8wt – I believe this line to be heavy and maps well to the stiffer BVK. The long rear taper allows for longer pickup and the shorter tip clear tip promotes use with a short leader for winder days.
    I have not weighed the line, so I cannot confirm it is “heavy”, but it does behave as it is a heavy line on my rods.
    Without testing, I would state the Airflo Bonefish line would be “light”, but castable, but disadvantaged with the shorter rear taper, while the Tropical Punch would be aggressive and would want a stiffer longer leader.  As I am happy with this Clear Tip, I am not willing to buy more lines to test.
  2. RIO Quickshooter
  3. Cortland Tropic Series Bonefish – a true 8wt – and though it was accurate, it took a little more energy to get it out.
    As the RIO Bonefish is similar to the Cortland, I did not test this line.

So yes, I would suggest a heavy 8wt, but a good caster can adjust to the line, so lets say this is a good match for Judy and I.





Written by raspberryfisher

2019/05/04 at 19:07

Bonefish Leaders

leave a comment »

In short: Tie your own or the next best action is to add 4′ of Seaquar Blue 12# to an Airflo Polyleader.  Control of the fly is important, but having a fine tippet is not.

As noted in a recent (April 2019) posts, I would carry in my kit for backing:

  • Spare spool of 20# 200yd (m) 3M Dacron backing
  • A small spool (minimum) of 30# backing to make line
  • UV Epoxy for securing a knot.
  • Line cleaner.

I would add, for tying leaders:

  • RIO Hard Mono – 30#, 25#,  20#, 16#
  • Seaquar Blue – 15#, 12#

I have tweaked my leader recipes as previously posted, as my starting point is a 13′ leader with a 15+ Tippet (Formula 3).

Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/18 at 23:31

Meridian 8wt – Bonefish Lines

with one comment


Continuing from my earlier review of Bonefish Lines, here I look at what lines suit the Scott Meridian 8wt for Bonefishing.

One of the common questions ask on forums, is “What line should I use for my rod?”.  Aitflo and others historically maintained recommendations for 2H (Spey) Rods, and recently Scott has also posted their recommendation for their – including Scott Meridian – focusing on the big three line manufacturers – SA, Airflo, and RIO. Specifically,

  • SA Mastery WF8
  • RIO Bonefish 8
  • Airflo Bonefish 8

Interesting to note in an 2018 Jim Bartschi (Scott Rods) interview with April Vokey, Jim noted they design their rods to be “true to weight” and does not recommend heavy-aggressive lines.  This is also reflected and stated, in the aforementioned Scott line recommendations.

After this season, I concur with the assessment, and though you can use the more aggressive taper lines, my recommendation for fit are – in order of preference >

  1. Cortland Tropic Series Bonefish 8wt – provide the best delivery (straight with a great unroll for delicate drop, and providing accuracy). If there is one dislike, I wish the head of the line not as “pure” white.
  2. RIO Bonefish 8wt – A close second, and a fine choice.
  3. RIO Quickshooter – 8wt – heavy, but acceptable for casting on windy days and where is chop et cetera. Though more testing is needed, I believe this is a better line for my TFO backup rod.
  4. Airflo Ridge Clear Tip 8wt – I found it a little heavy, but I would keep this on a reel with a shorter leader 7-9′ for windy days. Its clear tip adds in stealth, but you may find it hinders you tracking the fly and fish.

This testing was done on the flats, casting to Bonefish, in wind, with 12′ leader and a fly.

Update (at the urging of my wife): You (I) cast all of the above (with some adjustments in my stroke), but some cast better than others.  Never-the-less, do not overline this rod.

I utterly rejected the use of a Phoenix WF8 Silk.  I thought its finer line for wind and intermediate sink properties could balance the disadvantages of care and cost, but it does did not cast well on this rod (had no authority to lay down a fly).  I may try it one more time in the freshwater this summer, to better understand it, but as of this moment, it is in my bin to sell.

Update: There are other lines I did reject. One of which was a surprise, and makes me wonder if I got, what I thought (and labeled as) (but as I have not put in on the scale, I will say no more).  I rather NOT trash a product, without through analysis, but only recommend what I have proven with actual use.  As there is little (to no) information on using a silk for bonefish, I choose to include my negative comments.

Santana’s (Exuma) – Grouper Lunch


Incoming Turtle



Attack of the Turtles





Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/17 at 00:23

Posted in Bahamas, Fly-Fishing, Saltwater

Tagged with , ,

(my) Bonefish Backing Notes

leave a comment »

Backing – Selection – 3M Dacron

  • I have always used “colour” too differentiate my backing.  20+ years ago, so I know what I had on and to signal when I was in the backing. In short:
    • Orange (original) and Pink (now) for 30#
    • Yellow (original) and Green (now) for 20#
  • I have used gel-spun when I thought I needed more backing, but the cost and negative implications (complication in rigging, accidental cuts, et cetera) are such that I do not use it  (any more)).

dacron spool_DSC5437

How much backing?

  • So in 20+ years of pursing many fish (not open ocean), few fish have taken me into the backing. And may of those that could or did take me into the backing, there were limits that would impose distances. Common of these:
    • Rock, river bends, et cetera (steelhead, salmon)
    • Mangroves (bonefish)
  • To date the largest bonefish Judy and I have landed were on the edges of the mangroves.  Yes, we have had bonefish run on the open flat (and I lost one that went deep over the flats’ edge (lost it do to coral, not distance)), I have yet to experience a 100m run with a bonefish.  So while a 200m (or greater) run is possible, I have come to the conclusion it is a rare event. As such, I no longer  fret on not having the often recommended 200 yds of backing.
    • 100m minimum of 20# for Bonefish
    • 200m minimum of 30# for Steelhead and Salmon
  • This relaxation has allowed me to “ditch” gel-spun.
  • As I want to achieve all of the practical gains of a large arbour reel, I do “fill it up”. So though, 100m is the minimum, I am constantly spooling 150 to 250m on a reel for Bonefish.


  • 20# for Bonefish
  • 30# for Steelhead and Salmon.
  • In general
    • Single Hand Rods – 8wt rods or smaller 20#
    • Two Hand Rods – 5wt or smaller 20#
    • Everthing larger – 30#

Are there any other considerations?

20+ years ago, fly lines did not come with convenient loops, so you used an Albright Knot to form a firm connection from backing to line. One can cut off the loop an do this, but as I like to change lines to suit the need, I like loop to loop connections.


But 20# loops are too fine and subject to collapse when loop to a fly line!  So what do I do? Simple and has last a few years …..

One > Blood knot a 3-4m section of 30lb Dacron onto the 20# Backing.

blood knot_DSC5422

Two > Create a large perfection loop.


Three > Secure knots with a very fine application of UV Epoxy (Loon Knot Sense or ProTube Flexible).

As Braided Dacron ages better than mono or fluorocarbon, I prefer Dacron.  I admit that 25# Maxima Chameleon, Amnesia and Seaguar Blue works well, but I would secure the mono-FC to the 20# backing with an Albright Knot.

Another good alternative, if you fine the 30# is too fine, use Miracle Braid.

miracle loop_DSC5424

But consider that knots will be bigger (but will still clear) the rod guides.

knot comparison_DSC5428

So what do I travel with, for field repair, et cetera?

  • Line Dressing – yes, clean your lines
  • 200m (yd) Spare Spool of 20# and possibly 30# Backing
  • Small spool of Orange 30#  Backing
  • Loon Knot Sense (alternative is ProTube Flex UV Epoxy)
    • Use sunlight to cure the knot.
  • Optional Miracle Braidas my fly bag has scissors and a nail knot tool, all is good.




Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/16 at 22:07

zingers – buy once?

leave a comment »

Given most of the zingers used in fly fishing are not well built and function poorly, I have bought and used many, too many. I have effectively two major complaints for most zingers:

  • Durability (lack of)
  • Length of cable extension (too short), hindering function.

So this represents a classic decision > buy cheap many times or buy well once.

There are a couple of alternatives, that I do recommend, after 2+ years of extended use, including in the salt..

Gear Keeper – 2.5oz MicroKeeper

  • + My extends to 34+”
  • + Low Cost > 12.99 USD at Bearsden, versus 9 to 13 USD for a poor Dr Slick or Orvis Zinger.
  • – The retention pin is thick and can be very difficult to pierce heavy fabrics. You can buy it with other methods to secure it.


Abel Zinger

  • + Also extends to 34″ (hmm .. construction of spring and rope is very similar to Gear Keeper).
  • – Expensive at 95 USD at Bearden.
  • ~ The retention pin appears to be finer than the gear keeper and easier to push through fabric.

abel zinger_DSC5447

Note, below the Abel is a Orvis Zinger, where the pin is exposed (barely visible) and the “reel” inside to hold my “multi-tool”. Note visible in the photograph posed (as I cropped it out), but it is rusting.

As previously state, I have no interest or opportunity to gain from this post. Product has been in use for more than a year, so it reflects me and my interests only.





Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/15 at 21:03

Posted in Bahamas, Fly-Fishing, Saltwater, Tools

Tagged with

other fly-fishing glass tips

leave a comment »

judy bahamas 3

In continuation of my previous sunglass post, I keep with me – when on the water –

  • small spray bottle of glass cleaner (to dilute and clean off the salt spray)
  • spudz lens cleaning cloth
  • and a cheap pair of generic reading magnifiers (3x in my case).  While Judy prefers the clip magnifiers that pin onto hats, I strongly prefer the increase field of view that comes with reading glasses.




Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/14 at 20:32

Costa Permit Green Glass Sunglasses

with one comment

costa glasses_DSC5441 2
A short blog, having experimented with multiple glasses in different colours – mainly Costa del Mar and Maui Jim – my summary is simple.

  • Solid, tight and comfortable fit is most important!
    • Make sure it can stay on your face, when you look down at your feet.
    • Comfort must include wearing a hat, hoodies, buff and sun shield.
  • Side shield is a good thing!
  • Cable retainer that is comfortable when tucked into a hoodie, sun mask, et cetera.
  • Maui Jim and Costa are good, so what is my preference ….
  • My preference for bonefishing > Costa Permit Green Mirror Glass
    • Green Mirror, but warm brown tint.
    • And for a retainer, I prefer cable retainers, as it does not absorb water, whether it is raining or soapy water at the end of the day, when I wash the glasses.

costa permit

Image taken from Costa de Mar site.

My images are intentionally taken into the winter sun, so there is some hint of the tint.  Makes for a poor production shot, but does better conveys the impact.


  • My alternative > Costa Fantail Blue Mirror Plastic.  A more neutral lens with a light blue tint glass.


And Judy, she uses the Costa Trevally GT also in the Green Mirror Glass.

And leave you a little trick, how can you identify the lens of a Costa de Mar sunglass?  Look into the top right corner of the lens.

lens identificaion_DSC5443. 2jpg.


In all my reviews and comments on equipment-products, these are personal and I nor my wife are not a representative of any company that would gain from this. No review or comment is taken from a free sample, et cetera and only taken after actually using the product.

Similarily, I am not compensate, paid, et cetera for blogging, but do this as an extension of my hobby.



Written by raspberryfisher

2019/04/13 at 19:56