Raspberryfisher's Blog

notes on fishing & travel

Archive for the ‘Dry Flies’ Category

Veevus 14/0, if not Danville Threadmaster

leave a comment »

As reported earlier, I have been slowly transitioning to Veevus thread as my replacement for the discontinued Gudebrod for trout flies, but have wondered what thread “size” is right (for Veevus).

While cleaning up my area, I noticed I had 3 similar pink threads – Danville 6/0, Veevus 10/0 and 14/0.  Thinking what would be a good practical test, I settle on a trout fly that demands fine and strong thread – a small Kaufmann Stimulator – tied on a size 16 TMC 2312.  Bulky thread makes a clean head difficult, while a weak thread will break when you tie in the deer hair wings.  It is a fly that demands good thread control, with a thread that is fine and strong, but lays flat so as not to cut the deer hair.

Now – for me – this is a demanding fly, and I need to be warmed up – to do this fly well, id est the old adage applies – the first hundred are practice.  It is this reason that I referencing a video showing a good tie, than  picture of some poor test flies I did.

But in the end, my test results were:

  • Veevus 10/0 – strong, but created a bulky head – not accepted.
  • Veevus 14/0 – strong enough and created a fine head – acceptable.
  • Danville 6/0 – strong enough and created the finest head – preferred.

This is a great fly, and it has served me well, but I find it spins on the cast and after some time results in a twisted leader. With experience, I have developed a preference for a dry fly that sits into the film, so I rarely tie this fly on.

If I am not using a stimulator, what I have replaced it with?  I start off with the Oliver Edwards’ Caddis from his book – Raffia Wings with a dubbing-deer hair body mix – as a diving Caddis.

Caddis 5 DSC_7220

I forget where I picked this pattern up, but its similarities to the Stimulator are high.

ys 5 DWW_4522

And then there are Roman’s Ballon Caddis.

Balloon Caddis_1850

So deer hair is prominent in all flies here, but if there is another recommendation – but admittedly one I have not used – I would suggest the CDC Bubble Caddis is worth the effort it tie and experiment with.

.

Written by raspberryfisher

2017/05/15 at 03:28

Posted in Dry Flies, Fly-Tying

Troutline.ro

leave a comment »

One of the disappointments in North America Fly Tying supplies is Coq De Leon feathers for dry flies. These feathers are famous for tails on dry flies for their “stiff spring” and color-markings.

Yesterday, I receive the best (and good) Coq De Leon feathers from Troutline.ro and with a brief handling, would definitely would order more.

If there was any issue with the order process, was trying to translate the Spanish Hen names to the actual colour-markings.  As such, I order probably more than I needed and for others, post pictures of what I received (still in the package, so the colours are muted with the reflective ziplock bag covering the fly).

From left to right:

  • Tostado
  • Corzuno Oscuro – Nice for dark tails
  • Flor de Escoba – Yes, Sulphurs
  • Aconchado – Yes, for Adams
  • Corzuno Rojito – Yes, for March Browns

700  2 C de Leon_DSC8059.jpg

Closer in

700_DSC8062.jpg

Closer in with Corzuno Oscuro on the left and flor de escoba on the right.

700_DSC8065.jpg

and on the far right Corzuno Rojito.

700 _DSC8064.jpg

Oh yes, their hand tied flies are excellent too and much better than most volume tied flies available today in the fly fishing shop.

700 2_DSC8060.jpg

I would be more than happy to use their flies exclusively for the few times, I do nymph.

The only reason to tie, for to enable an infinite variety, but they offer a fine selection to start a trout fisherman out with.

.

 

 

 

Written by raspberryfisher

2016/09/09 at 19:10

Posted in Dry Flies, Fly-Tying, Nymphs

Last (planned) dry tie fly for the year – Sulphur Dun

leave a comment »

To complete my collection of suphur flies that are very yellow and “can” tend towards chartreuse, here is my yellow sulphur dun. Key notes that distinguishes from a production fly:

  • The body is Danville yellow thread and varnish – 3 coats and wait a week. It is simple but requires patience.
  • The hackle and dyed mallard is dyed by me to suit my expectation – a brighter yellow than any production fly.  I do not dye a complete cape, but select the feathers I want from a white cape, and dye accordingly.
  • I note that I changed thread at the head to Veevus to minimize bulk, but it does have the same saturation as Danville. I do not like applying “cement” to the head once done to reduce bleeding back to the had, so I just tie a nice whip finish knot with wax.

sulphur DWW_4587

.

Written by raspberryfisher

2015/08/29 at 20:18

Dry Fly Hooks Sizes

leave a comment »

Return to an old theme, manufacturer’s hook sizes are really useless.  What you need to know, one you select your hook, is how long is the body. I publish my reference for nymphs six years ago, but not for the dry fly. Given I an updating my dry fly hook standard to the TMC 103BL, so I thought it was time to publish my standard with the associated body length.

  • TMC 103BL – Size 11 – 10.3mm
  • TMC 103BL – Size 13 – 9.1mm
  • TMC 103BL – Size 15 – 8.4mm
  • TMC 103BL – Size 17 – 7.2mm
  • TMC 103BL – Size 19 – 5.7mm

If I am looking for smaller, for small BWO or Tricos, where I am also thinking about an extended body, I move to the Daiichi 1640 with the Straight Eye.

  • Daiichi 1640 – Size 16 – 5.0mm
  • Daiichi 1640 – Size 18 – 4.5mm
  • Daiichi 1640 – Size 20 – 3.8mm

The body length is define as the from eye (last wrap of thread) to the point where the shank has dropped ~0.66 diameter of the wire. I am not using an optical tool, but measurement by hand with old eyes of one hook with a nice machinist vernier. As such, I would predict the margin of error is about 3%.  (Yes, I am an engineer)

So as illustrated below, yes, I identify the hook, but I look and select the hook by the intended body size.

H2 IMG_1667

H2 IMG_1668

And what happens to the hooks that fall out of favour (or samples to try). I either:

  • Put in a bag in a slot that corresponds to its equivalent. When I tied in the size, I will decide if I will use them up.
  • Occasionally sell them or give them away.  This idea of Pay it forward seems like a new way to pass on good karma..

.

Written by raspberryfisher

2015/08/18 at 23:48

Posted in Dry Flies, Fly-Tying

Yellow Sally – White

with one comment

One of the problems with white is the bleached hair is delicate and often has broken tips on the hide, which is evident in this series. It is a rare find to get a bright white bleached fine hair coastal deer hide suitable for small flies, but I will be searching soon, as my current patch is nearly stripped clean.

ys w DWW_4537

The broken tips is suitable for a down-wing pattern such as this, but I would not use it for comparaduns.

The underside, as seen by the trout.

ys w DWW_4539

The wing here is a little long, but a little variety in the box is okay in many cases. Though the colour is a better match than the previous post to the natural, I do prefer the deer hair wing on the previous fly.

.

Written by raspberryfisher

2015/08/17 at 04:07

Posted in Dry Flies, Fly-Fishing

Yellow Sally – Tan

leave a comment »

I have two more dry flies left to tie for next year – Yellow Sally White and Traditional Sulphur.  This is my Yellow Sally reflecting my observation that many of the early stoneflies have a green head.

YS 1 DWW_4515

ys 4 DWW_4520

ys 3 DWW_4519

ys 2 DWW_4516

ys 5 DWW_4522

.

Written by raspberryfisher

2015/08/16 at 00:29

small (16) – Sulphur Klinkhamers

leave a comment »

While I wait for an order of fly line tips for my new rod to come in, I finished up some small (size 16) Sulphur Klinkhamers.

Of note, the bodies are quill with a thread base. To get segmentation, I allow gaps as I wrap and then use 3 coats of varnish (Cellire) to coat the body.  It is important to wait a week to allow the varnish harden thoroughly. The hint – tie the bodies, varnish and let them sit in a box for a week. Add the post, hackle and peacock later.

I am using a variant saddle hackle from Metz that I picked up in the late nineties with a range of tan to red-brown.

sulphur klinkhamerDWW_4451

The foam post is tied in from the front, so as the body is slim, though it has a tendency to lean back (which I am not fond off, but this is the lesser of 2 evils).

I find this is the minimum size of post that will keep the fly in the surface film.

sulphur yellow DWW_4449

If you look into the peacock below, you can detect I counter-wrap the peacock with thread. Id est, I tie in peacock at the post and wrap it forward to the eye (where the thread is).  Tie off the peacock, apply a whip finish knot, and then wrap the thread back to the post.

Last, I wrap the hackle around the post and secure-knot the hackle to the post. You can see the bulk from the thread.  Sometimes I get enough compression from the foam you will not see the thread, but usually the threadat the base of the hackle is visible.

I rarely cement the finish, as it often wicks into the peacock and thus harming the fly. Tie in secure, compress the foam and consider using some wax as you whip finish.

sulphur klinkhamer DWW_4448

Darker hackle.

sulphur klinkhamer DWW_4447

Lighter hackle.

sulphur klinkhamer DWW_4453

Written by raspberryfisher

2015/08/13 at 23:49