Raspberryfisher's Blog

notes on fishing & travel

Meiser 15’6″ 5wt with Petrevan Reel

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Received a new reel Thursday to match to me Meiser 15’6″ 5wt, from Wayne Petrevan (Canada Reels). Empty reel weight is 12.7 oz. I have at least 150m of 30lb backing and a SRO Vector 390 grain line on.

Pictures from Wayne, just before he shipped it.

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/08/07 at 02:28

Posted in Spey

Tagged with ,

16’7″ 7wt Steve Godshall (my) Build – the Handle

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As the idea of a long 7wt appealed to me and I wanted to refine my expectations-preference for a spey rod (handle); I ordered one of Steve’s rare Flywerks 16’7″ 7wt and had a great talk with Steve.

Now, I am not showing some of the early experiments (using EVA foam handles, et cetera), how I moved the reel seat, et cetera, but documenting the major steps, with some illustrations of how this journey is coming to a close.

For me, the gold standard for fly rod handles are those from Bob Meiser, as exemplified by my 15’6″ wt and 13’6″ 7wt – with a particular nod to the butt and thin handle to slide my hand-up/down during the cast. So this was my starting point.
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Step 1 – Build the Top 4 Sections – not shown.

The top 4 sections were built using the guides and spacing as marked by Steve. The thread work was simply black, no accents using ProWrap Size A Nylon, using ThreadMaster epoxy. I do note Steve did recommend Prowrap Nylon A, no CP and Threadmaster (for strength, versus silk).

This gave me a rod to play with, albeit no complete handle, so I can experiment with handle design, such as effect of weight of cork and other materials.

In future, I may add some colour at the ferrule wrap for any future spey rods.
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Step 2 – Select the initial Reel

Reel – 4″ Chris Henshaw Perfect

I have previously declared, I prefer large arbour reels, and this remains true. This preference is a function of the rate of retrieve do support fish who like to run, but the lower stress on a fly line when coiled on a large arbour. The primary negative with these reels, they are too light to balance a long spey rod, as the OEMs focus is now too make the lightest reels possible for single salt-water hand rods.

My original plan for this rod, was to mount the reel low, and use heavy materials (rubberized cork, wood, brass) on the lower half of the handle and possibly get a reel made by Vlad to ~12 ounces. Sadly, this is not possible, as Vlad is a custom reel maker in Ukraine and had to flee when Russia invaded this spring. 😦

My interactions with Vlad was minimal, but my interactions says he was a good person, and so his is current plight, many of us are lucky! and much to be thankful for.

A machinist in British Columbia offered a cleaned up Chris Henshaw Perfect, and though a little heavier than anticipated, I bought it.

  • Empty Weight – 14.0 oz, a little lighter than the discontinued Nautilus 12S
  • Weight with 30# Backing – 15.4 oz – typical weight impact
  • Expanded inner diameter with backing – 2″ – versus 3″ with the same Nautilus 12S
  • Reel with Gaelforce 73 89 with head dangling out of rod tip – 15.7 oz
  • Reel with Gaelforce 73 89 line in – 17.5 oz

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The other change I will need to adapt to. I will not be palming the outer rim, when the fish runs, and need to apply pressure on the opposing face.

And with my largest line spooled, the Gaelforce 73 89.

The other reel – my Nautilus 12S – empty weight of 14.5 ounces.

It is currently spooled with SRO Ballistic Vector XL 89 660 grains.

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Yes, I had considered some smaller and lighter reels, but in the end, I went to these reels for their line capacity. (I was originally thinking of a Danielsson and counter weight in the handle, but decided I wanted a higher line capacity reel and I had the Nautilus).

From my previous survey of reels, the other contenders were the Hatch Ionic 11+ Mid-Arbour and the Tibor Signature 11-12., but these would be new purchases.
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Step 3 – Decide where I want to place the reel seat.

  1. To prevent, the bottom section being the biggest section in the rod bag, I cut off the base of the blank, such that the lower blank length was 3/8″ less than the tallest section.
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  2. To help with balancing with a lighter reel, I went with a down-locking reel seat, and held it in place with tape, allowing me to change, for my initial test casting.
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  3. I added a temporary EVA grip on the upper handle and did create sample butts that I could interchange.
    .
    So I was able to cast, change were the reel seat was position. It was good, but it was not prefect as the reel seat would rotate while casting.

Despite this rod is light; I went with the shortest lower handle position, with a total length of 12cm (4 3/4″). Such a short handle, also affected the lower handle design (as illustrated below).

I note that I would have been happy at 5 1/4″, and my beloved Meiser 15’6″ 5wt has a 6″ lower handle.
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In my test casting, I decided I would not replicate the replicate the end flourish that Bob includes, and maintain a low profile, after the butt, all the way to the top.

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Generally, I prefer metal reel seats for larger rods, and very happy with the Meiser RBM, but may choose the next time for a dyed stabilized wood seat for show, and it may add a little more weight, based on some rough calculations.

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Step 4 – Build the top handle.

Layout of the cork, as illustrated below.

The lower handle idea is also shown, but would not be completed until the top handle is completed, and after some more test fishing with the reel on. I also change the lower handle to use the “brookstone burl”.

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  • Weight of Bottom Blank: 50 grams estimated
  • Weight of RBM Reel Seat: 46 grams
  • Weight of Bottom Blank with Mounted RBM Reel-Seat: 105 grams
    • Use U40 Rod Bond Epoxy to Secure Reel-Seat
  • Weight of Bottom Blank with Reel-Seat and Top Handle: Measurement lost. 😦
  • Weight of Bottom Section, with completed handle: 210 grams

I eventually use a dark rubber in lieu of cork at the edges.

I did consider the use of heavy rubberized cork the lower third, but as the diameter is thin, the weight gain was small, so “visuals” dominated my decision.

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As I have a small drill press and machine lathe, the basic steps were:

  1. Stack the pieces in order from butt to top, as illustrated above.
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  2. Drill out the cork/rubber to the diameter of the rod.
    1. I used 3 different lipped drill bits in 1/64th increments).
  3. To minimize tear-out on entry, I lower the bit slowly.
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  4. Rod Bond the reel seat in-place.
  5. Using U-40 Rod Bond, assemble the rubber ends to the first cork section.
    1. Titebond II does not hold well to the rubber.
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  6. Using Titebond II, assemble the cork into two sections – cork and burl.
    1. I have notice when I have used U-40 to create a handle, a noticeable hard edge between each cork ring is present and does interfere with the feel and sanding (hard epoxy and soft cork).
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  7. Wait a day, let everything set.
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  8. On a mandrel, shape each piece to shape, and being conscious we want each section to butt close, so match the diameters, with a spare 1 (rubber) to 2mm (cork) for the final shaping.
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    1. I was using skew chisels and a spindle gouge for the rubber, on a modified tool rest.
    2. Sandpaper for the cork. The rough grit (80 to 180) is actually on a flat stick, so I can maintain a straight handle taper.
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    3. Maintain ventilation, use a vacuum and wear a mask.
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  9. What was my diameter target?
    1. For the rubber > 27-28 mm, to match the reel-seat.
    2. For the cork > 24-25 mm – which was the best comprise for casting and holding the rod during a swing.
      1. Bob’s 15’6″ is 22 to 20.5mm.
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  10. Rod Bond the 4 handle sections to the blank against the reel seat and wait a day.
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  11. Turn-sand on the lathe to shape. I wet sand down to a grit of 600 on the cork and 1200 on the rubber.

After some practice casting, it was clear, at the same time as above, I could have turn and secured the lower handle, without the butt, as I was NOT going to had a brass collar.

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Step 5 .. Create some sample butts and cast, refine.

Effectively defining-re-affirming what butt shape and size I prefer.

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Step 6 Create final lower handle and butt, then secure with Rod Bond.

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This image illustrates one block’s pattern was reserved, and I should have probably left it out.

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When fishing, the rod is secured with my lower hand using just the butt, so the below shown grip is atypical, but it illustrates how I decided the shortest length and why I am using a simple taper.

While the journey is nearly complete, I need to add the winding check and finishing wraps.

Some close-ups and showing all blemishes.

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Yes, I like this rod, and the journey has been fun.

I cannot decide which line I prefer – Vector XL 89 or the Gaelforce 73′ 89, but the rod is light, cast well and has a little fast zip at the tip that makes my cast respectable.

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/07/24 at 02:33

Posted in Rod-Building, Spey

Tagged with ,

Kabuto 663 – 3wt

with 2 comments

the artistic image 🙂
I do not like thin handles, full grips are comfortable
Keep it simple, and transparent wraps
a little blue
yes, my name is Wilson and I have a beard with short hair!
with small wraps at the tip-top
and the blue guide

Notes

Having observed how my samples of epoxy ages, in particular the epoxy darkens, I decided to go with ThreadMaster Lite. From this, I decided to do some thread colour sample experiments on the butt (before I put on a handle), as illustrated below.
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Oh yes, I did not use new TM Lite, but some aged epoxy that had already darken.

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As my next Kabuto rod will be using a green agate stripper guide, so I was testing green to.

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I decided on ProWrap Nylon 813 Silver Shiner Size A (on the left side of the snake guide, picture above).

The blue accent colour became Fuji NOCP 009 Royal Blue Size A to compliment the blue agate guide from Joe Arguello. The other guides where Snake Brand.

I did not use a Faber India Ink pen (it was drying out), so I did use Daler Rowney Acrylic Ink with a “calligraphy” pen. Though, I wish my writing on the rod was better.

Handles

My grip is a full grip, allowing for a soft-gentle hold, and therefore more comfortable. The implication is that I do not need to pull in the muscles to hold the rod providing comfort and flexibility of movement.

So yes, I understand a fine small thin grip is traditional and artistic for a light single hand rod, but in my arms, these excessive small grips are not comfortable and harm the cast.

Reel

I continue using Danielsson reels, and selected the Nymph. (The Midge is a little small for a 4wt line).

Fly Line

Kabuto Rods have a reputation for liking a heavy fly line. I played with 5 lines, and listing thus from the best fit to the least like, I cast light flies from 10-40′ using ….

  • Rio LightLine 4wt – Very Good – good loops and light landing.
  • Cortland Ultralight 3wt – Good+ it was just the RIO was a little better.
    .
    It should be noted that the Cortland line is a true 3wt, and still performed well. I think this illustrates, it is just not the weight of the line, but distribution of the weight and the materials too.
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    You an never discount the caster’s preference and intent on how he-she will fish.
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  • Guideline Fario 3wt – Good, but lack some authority, when going past 30′ feet.
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  • Cortland 444 Peach 4wt DT – Ok – But I was having to extend the arm back, when going for 30′ feet (to get the energy needed to layout the fly). I do not have a Peach 3wt. The extended back cast is of course, something one does when on the flat and casting into the wind, but it not something I want to exploit frequently on a trout creek.
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  • SA XPS 3wt DT – Fair – Same as the 444, just did not want to go past 30′, without having to use an extended cast (as if I was shooting 80+’ on the salt flats).

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🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/06/25 at 02:13

Posted in Rod-Building

EVA Comparison for Rods

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White is a recent purchase from Mudhole and the others are older samples (5 years) from NERBS (who now only sell blocks, not cylinders) (I believe NERBS is now ThreadCentral).

The edge lighting illustrates the rough and poor density from Mudhole, and I will note it is difficult to create a fine finish, as issue is with the grain itself, and not the cut provided. You need to apply a soft pressure light sand with fine paper.

End cut illustration, and please note that cuts shown on the green and yellow block are “mine”.

Illustrating round roughness.

Close-up illustrating cell gaps and uniformity.

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Q1: Is the “quality” difference sufficient to be concerned? A: IMHO: Yes, for a fine custom rod, were finish is important. If you are using a high quality cork, then this is a mis-match.

Q2: Is there a consumer price difference? A: No.

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It appears mostnof these blocks come from China, and I have no idea how many OEMs are out there competing; but it is probable they are being purchased / competing only on lowest price.

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🙂

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Written by raspberryfisher

2022/06/12 at 18:36

Adding weight on the bottom hand (spey rods)

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Meiser 15’6″ 5wt

Continuing from the recent publish look at densities and weight for fly rod handles, I have taken this information to create simple models to understand, what is required to really add weight,

In this simple study, I make the following conclusions, as it pertains to spey rods:

  • Using rubberized or burl cork exclusively in the lower handle will assist, though the impact is small, as illustrated by comparing Case A to Case B below.
  • An inner brass plug will assist in small weight adjustments – Case C.
  • Large gains will only be achieved by adding a large material exterior ring – Case D&E.

I updated the earlier study, with data about epoxy (heavy), and aluminum. If you really want to add weight – goto brass, nickel silver or copper.

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/06/04 at 05:08

the two 10′ James Greens fiberglass rods

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James defined these two rods as 5wt (3pc Black) and 7wt (4pc Honey), and below is my simple comparative summary and notes on my build.

Rod Bags

Shout out to Jillian at https://www.betweentwobanks.com/about-rod-socks . Best bags, fair price and a good person.

Lines

I do like the “discontinued” Airflo Switch Streamer Line the best, with the following weights:

  • 5wt – 330-360 grains + 4′ heavy furled leader and 6’+ leader-tippet
    .
  • 7wt – 360-390 grains + OPST Micro Skagit 5′ Commando Tip (adds another 30 grains) and-or a long mono-leader.

Id est, there is little differentiation in preferred lines, but I note that the (black) 5wt has a faster recovery. As I feel the bend easier with the 5wt, I am more with the comfortable with the 5wt.

I can still layout a nice cast with the 7wt, but it takes a little more thought.

I have experimented with many lines and shooting heads (OPST, Airflo Rage, RIO Scandi Compact, et cetera), and I have come to like these Airflo discontinued integrated lines the best (for these rods and my style). The only thing I have not tried is passing this rod to Steve Godshall and ask him to create a custom line.

I state discontinued, but it should be recognized that the new leadership-owners of Airflo has trimmed their spey line portfolio, and most of their remaining lines have new packaging. Thought they still display these lines on their website – it is with the old packaging and there is no stock (and there has been no stock for seasons).

James Green 10′ 5wt
James Green 10′ 7wt

Reels

The Danielsson Original 3W at 190 grams (6.7 ounces) makes for a nice balance setup.

The reel on the 7wt has the trademark Loop, and is my original large arbour steelhead reel I start using in the late 90s on the winter steelhead rivers. Obviously it has proven to be a good buy, durable, et cetera. Yes, there is no drag, but it is easy to apply pressure by palming.

Build

The 7wt is a artistic build in that I used:

  • Stripper: Joe A Agate Stripper Guide
  • Guide: Snake Brand Silver
  • Thread: Three Colour fine silk with Al’s CP
  • Reel Seat: Lemke with Wood Spacer
  • Epoxy: ProKote

The 5wt is stealth modern build in that I am using (used):

  • Stripper: Fuji
  • Guide: Snake Brand Black Guide
  • Thread: Size A Black Fuji Nylon NOCP, with limited Copper Trim
  • Reel Seat: Meiser RBM (largest size)
  • Epoxy: TM Lite.
    .

Comments on Quality

Rod Bags from Jillian

Just Excellent

Rods

I find the fit on the ferrules for the 7wt does require the use of tape, always to secure the fit. Otherwise, very good.

Reel Seats

Lemke wood spacer (from SouthWest) was not well sealed and over a couple of years, it absorb moisture and swelled. The swelling was such that reels would not fit. I eventually had to sand it (lightly on a lathe), and then seal it with Tru-Oil. It has worked well since.

The Meiser RBM Reel-Seat is excellent and highly recommended.

Cork & EVA Foam

I have bought EVA from two sources – Mudhole and Billy Vivona (NERBs). The my older stock of foam I have from Billy is definitely better, as it sands and shapes easier and able to create a fine finish. The last 2 buys from Mudhole was barely acceptable. The 5wt is EVA from Mudhole, and if you look carefully you can see-feel its open construction.

For cork, I have had to reject too much from Mudhole, so now I buy from Portugal and Matt to ProofFlyFishing.

Epoxy – Lite

Long-term testing shows Prokote yellows more than Flexcoat or Thread-Master. This will only be an issue, if working on a white blank.

In previous work, I had inter-action issues with TM and Colour Preserver.

So …

  • If working with silk thread and Al’s Color-Rite – ProKote or Flexcoat.
  • If working with nylon thread, including colour lock thread – ProKote,, Flexcoat, or ThreadMaster
  • If working on white blank and want a transparent thread body – TM.

My current rods are being built with TM Lite, but all three are viable.

Guides

Unless I want an agate guide, I am partial to Fuji and Snake Brand.

Thread

ProWrap or Fuji Nylon Size A – All Good

I have recently moved to Nylon Size A for spey rods and salt water, as a matter of opinion (versus verified fact), suspecting it provides greater realized strength. I write this > knowing that I have never had a break with fine silk, but the custom builders (Burkheimer, Meiser) of spey rods do use Nylon A.

Fine Silk – Good, but as for the reason above I am incline to limit silk to bamboo rods (reasons of tradition) or 5wt single hand rods.

I believe I started with fine silk, as my first rod was a fine Scott 3wt rod. Size A just did not look right.

Gudebrod – The discontinued standby and I do have some old spools. These spools are desired for reasons of tradition or accurate historical builds, but I have encountered sections where thread quality is poor, requiring a cut and “do-over”. I note that Gudebrod thread served me well-enough for the recent Kabuto build.

Is there an something, I would change?

  • Consider a butt cap on the 5wt either made from African Blackwood or Rubberized Cork, and replace the burnt burl cork with rubberized cork, id est, make it look closer to the 7wt.
    ,
    So why do I use EVA? EVA has been a great fighting butt material on single hand rods, and it is black. But I like the firmer rounded cap on the 7wt with the rubberized cork. Never-the-less, there is no issue with the EVA butt.
    .
    As a note, as the diameter of the 5wt blank in the butt was greater than the 7wt, there is less of “swell” on the 5wt (or I would have no cork).
    .

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🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/06/01 at 04:41

Posted in Rod-Building, Spey

Understanding Cork for Fly Rod Handles

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Rewrite – It appears WordPress published drafts and not the final copy.

I shall declare that I like cork for rod handles, as it is comfortable and allows for a secure grip in the cold and the hot, or when it is wet or dry. It is the perfect material for rod handles.

The only negatives – for me – of cork:

  1. It is light, and thus may not be the best on the bottom hand of a long two-hand rod.
  2. Quality Cork is expensive, and cheap cork does not provide good edge protection.

So how does cork compare to other materials associated with rod handles, if I am in need to address cork’s few weak points, such as adding weight in the bottom hand on a spey rod. Below we look at the density of cork and its alternatives are; and then, what a simple 2.5cm (1″) diameter weight would be, when 2.5cm long on a 1cm diameter rod section.

Notes:

  • Density Measurements (calculation) of all cork, EVA and acrylic was based on actual samples, with a minimum length of 15cm.
  • Burl Cork density varies based on what is supplied. I am using the heavier samples that I have.
  • Density Measurements of Epoxy, Wood, and Metals is from “the web”.

Conclusions:

  • Surprise Lesson 1: Rubberized Cork is very heavy and durable.
    • It should be use if you need weight. Never-the-less, the gains are not large.
    • It should be used, sparingly as an edge material, if weight is not desired.
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  • Surprise Lesson 2: EVA is lighter than I expected, which is silly, as did know it was light!
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  • Disappointment Lesson 3: Burl quality (and density) does vary substantially.
    .
    I have bought good and bad (50% reject rate), but at this point I buy my cork either from Matt at ProofFlyFishing or Cork4us from Portugal.
    .
  • Lesson 4: Adding counterweight within the rod’s cylinder has little gain, unless you are using very dense (heavy) materials, like brass.
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    Though rare (not in fashion) are metal caps – probably a valuable feature in a large spey rod. (As the initial writing) the only rod manufacturer that I know that offers this is Bruce & Walker from Britain. There may be others.
    .
    I have seen some custom rod makers, turn they own.
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    The following images is from Bruce & Walker, as I note I have not touched one, but they are many devoted casters of these rods.
    .

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Metal Caps – Preliminary Look

It looks like Hopkins & Hollay (H&H) and ALPS make rod caps, and as I am building a 16’7″ 7wt, I will be investigating this option.

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🙂

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Post edit update 1 > A reader from Ohio (un-identified, as I have not asked if I can share his name), pointed me to DGS Customs (small presence on Facebook) in British Columbia who makes some custom parts, including butt caps. This is looks great.

.

🙂

Post edit update 2 > As you learn more, you see more!

As I have seen a few other production rods with metal bands, I thought I would do a deeper informal survey.

So who uses metal bands on the butt or metal caps?

  • Bruce & Walker, CND, Gaelforce, some Redington rods

And who is using cork (including composite) without a metal cap or cap?

  • Burkheimer, Echo, Grey, Guideline, Hardy, Loop, MacKenzie, NAM, Redington, Sage, Shakespeare, Vision, Winston

If I was a professional blogger and concern with hits, et cetera, these updates would be separate blogs. But as these are for me and a small group of people as reference material, I have and will continue to update the relevant blog when applicable.

🙂

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Written by raspberryfisher

2022/05/29 at 18:48

Posted in Handles, Rod-Building

Kabuto 5wt

with one comment

This is a slow deep progressive rod that is well suited for dry fly fishing in mountains streams and on small rivers.

When casting, one needs to remember a long pause on the back cast; and I found once I got ~25′ (8m) of line past the tip, I really need to watch my back cast.

With casts of 25′(8m) or more line past the tip, one needs to use a double-haul to maintain the so-desired flat line in the air and allow for a full roll-out on the forward cast. Thus, the maximum relaxed cast distance, once we add in the leader and rod is about 40′ from where you are standing.

Though a double-haul is available, I do prefer to the relax cast as it allows for softer lay-down, and even time to mend as the line is setting down on the water.

Thus, its strength (relative to the many graphite rods) is fishing real close, and why I see this as a mountain stream / small river rod.

And line recommendation? I would recommend a long front taper line (Guideline Fario or Wulff Triangle Taper), and like others would recommended a line on the heavy side (for its line rating). I really like having a line at least 150 grains (10 grams) at 25′ (8m).
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Some images, close in (also shows the blemishes to):

With respect to the build, I note I had this parts for too many years, but what my notes do say …

  • Struble Reel Seat, space unknown
  • Cork was turned on the blank – I do not like thin handles.
  • ThreadMaster Lite Epoxy
  • Dale Rowney Acrylic Ink
  • Thread, Size
    • Primary: Gudebrod Sunburst Nylon
    • First Accent (Orange): Fuji 15
    • Red Accent: Fuji NOCP 20
  • Struble Nickel Silver Check
  • Joe Arguello Agate Guide
  • Snake rand Guides and Tip Top

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/05/01 at 23:32

Posted in Fly-Fishing, Rod-Building, Uncategorized

Tagged with

Line Management – SA Regulator

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I have for years used the RIO Cranky to spool lines, either to wash or store. I have even implemented a hack to improve winding. This hack enables a drill, which is not only faster, but find I can get a better more (even) wind.)

Yet, there are two weakness (limits) of the RIO Cranky.

  1. It relies on you having-keeping RIO spools (with a square hole), and as the word moves away from plastic, these will become rare.
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    As well, it does not work with SA or Airflo spools either.
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  2. If you remove the line from the spool, you will find it nearly impossible to get the line back on the spool (supporting a simple return to the reel).
    .
    This later limit does not bother me too much, as I like lay out a line and stretch it BEFORE I put it back on the reel. Never-the-less, having it on a spool to unwind makes life easier – whether you are putting the wind direct to the reel or laid-out on the deck.

As SA is now shipping their lines on “paper” reels (as illustrated below), they have also provided a supporting tool for fly line spool-storage; a product they call the “Regulator”. The great feature on this tool, is its ability to accept an existing spooled line and expand the inner diameter, allowing for the user to get a stored line back onto spool-reel, easily.

My observations:

  1. The feature of the internal expanding holder makes it a reel improvement over the Cranky.
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  2. The handles are small, so the pack well, but too small in that wobble on the wind-in is high. I advise is to make sure, when you wind in, to keep the inner legs as far apart as possible and reel in slow.
    .

The new paper spools.

And there was thought on how to remove the line from the spool, without having to tear it apart.

I found you can spool your line off a spindle, but you have to be slow to unwind; otherwise the line in the paper spool will drop and bind (lock in). I note the Guideline Paper Packaging (as reported at the end of the James Green 3wt posting), does not allow you to use a centre spindle, so you need to be patient and do it by hand.

The “regulator” with the small handles. You can see some thought was given to:

  • How to hold the line end to start
  • How to place any wrap (like pipe-cleaners)
  • The expanding inner “reel”.

The back end, showing the expanding ratchet for the expanding inner spool.

And a look inside, showing the expanding inner legs held in tension by a polymer ring.

Yes, it is a good tool to have, if you need to change or cleans lines.

…… Post submission add

If I am stripping line out for inspection and maintenance (cleaning), I will lay it out on a stripping mat, which use see on saltwater boats to tame lines on a windy deck.

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/04/30 at 21:59

Bahamas (Air) Logo

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A key reason I really enjoy fishing in the Bahamas, it is the light and the sky – id est the colours. Like southern France, there is a clarity and blue tone that speaks to me (just as Provence spoke to Van Gogh).

As we waited for our flight back from Crooked Island, what was probably obvious finally clicked-in, I realize the logo on the tail is a stylize map of the Bahamas, and then I started to guess which island is which colour.

Andros was obvious, but do you interpret the other islands.

So, I spent a few minutes on a web search and notice two different images, and for the following summary, I included the expanded version (with Rum Cay and the Ragged Islands).

And to my surprise, google did not bring up an image-discussion that provides a definitive mapping, so my curious mind took the challenge.

So here is my interpretation.

But as I look at what was done, a couple of observations:

  • Mayaguana is a brown! and not the vibrant colours of the other islands.
  • In the expanded version, Ragged Islands is a too little warm.
  • Green and Orange (Brown) are the bookmarks.

The colours and waters that have seduced me, which call me Judy and I to come back.

🙂

Written by raspberryfisher

2022/04/24 at 20:16

Posted in Bahamas