Raspberryfisher's Blog

notes on fishing & travel

Spring snow

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It may be spring, but we are still seeing snow.  From last night, the snow on the trees before sunrise, with the glow of dawn through the dark forest.

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Written by raspberryfisher

2017/03/25 at 16:13

Barred Owl – Spring Snowfall

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Sitting around the bird feeder.

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patiently watching the squirrels feeding below

 

 

 

Written by raspberryfisher

2017/03/24 at 22:59

Posted in Life in the back

Light and small crab bonefish flies

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Most commercial crab fly patterns for bonefish are big and heavy – great to cast off a boat into 2-6’s water.  And yet, when you are walking on the flats in shadow water, when the fish are spooky, you need something that is small, light, still sink and will lay down softly.

From left to right, we have

  • Wilson’s micro-crab – size 8 hook – 0.21grams
  • Commercial Blue Yarn Crab – size 6 – 0.80grams
  • Commercial Veverka’s Corsair Crabby – size 4 -1.44g
  • Commercial Borski’s Crab  – size 2 – 1.79grams

So what is important?

  • Small hook – Size 6 or 8
  • Body material that will shed water and not imped sinking – EP Brush
  • Trimmed wide body shape.
  • Small to medium bead chain eyes

As this is for shallow water, with the expectation the fly is being pulled away from the bonefish, one needs to consider the view will be low and from the back.  If necessary, you can trim the top flat, but as I saw many crabs position themselves up, I did not believe this was a critical feature.

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So what is the recipe:

  • Size 8 Hook
  • Pink Thread
  • Krystal Flash – Optional – think hybrid shrimp-crab pattern
  • Grizzly Hackle Stripped – Optional  – length of body
  • Hen Hackle splayed open – natural – similar to fly
  • Small-Medium Bead Chain Eyes – Consider Black – mounted at back of fly and such that the hook rides up
  • Small Hen hackle – Yellow , Orange, Pink or Chartreuse – Wrapped around shank.
  • Prepare shank with a tapered body of pink thread.
  • EP (Shrimp Dub) Brush tightly wound from back to eye.
    • Trim body to shape
    • Trim base flat

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I would like to have a lighter colour Hen Hackle.

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Written by raspberryfisher

2017/02/02 at 09:41

Danielsson Reels

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I have great affinity for the Nautilus Reels, but before Nautilus – nearly 20 years ago – I start with Loop-Danielsson “Traditional” Reels. 20 years ago these were the first large arbour reels, reels that were made for fish that ran long distances – such as Steelhead.

Since then,

  1. Loop and Danielsson split their business partnership (under unkind terms).
  2. Sealed drags has become common place – great for saltwater.
  3. Danielsson sells direct – in effect a great reel at a great price.

So this is my new Danielsson HD 9-13.

Below the reel is spooled to handle a spey rod or the salt (bonefish), with 50m of 30lb 3M orange dacron, 150+m 20lb 3M green Dacron backing and a 10m of 30lb transition. The 10m marks the transition from fly line into backing  and I use a large loop (perfection loop knot) to allow for quick change of fly lines – whether it is scandi heads on my spey rods or lines for saltwater (bonefish).

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I have played with the reel and I am first to admit a real positive review can only come after a year of hard use, but given the love shown by others I respect and my good history with Danielsson, I am happy to say this is my reel of choice.

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Written by raspberryfisher

2017/02/02 at 04:44

Posted in Fly-Fishing, Saltwater, Spey

Dye Results

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In continuation of my theme on dying and references, here are some pictures of what the dyes “will” do, with some commentary.

Please note colours do change from camera to reduction into a jpg and lastly on your screen. I suspect procedure and materials also impact the outcome. So the results will change and some subtle elements may have disappeared in this quick study below.  Never-the-less, I long ago learnt colour references are names (from watercolour painting) are not accurate indicators of outcome and very open for misunderstanding. As such, I hope this is a starting point for some.

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Starting at one end of spectrum (subtractive), lets begin with

  • Jacquard Hot Fuschia – Intense and saturated
  • Dharma Pink Orchid – Tends to blue and a little dark
  • Superfly Hot Pink – Saturated and strong and a little lighter than J Hot Fuschia
  • Dharma Flamingo Pink – A dirty red.
  • Pro Chemical Hot Pink – Another strong Pink.

If I had to pick one – Pro Chemical Hot Pink, then Jacquard’s Hot Fuschia

Oh yes, this reference was intended for me, so please excuse consistency in labeling and spelling errors. Moving to the Reds …

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  • Jacquard New Red – strong and intense
  • Jacquard Olive – Great Mid to Dark Olive Brown with tones to a warm red (Orange)
  • Superfly Red – string and intense –  match (same?) as Jacquard New Red
  • Dharma Flamingo Pink – as previously posted – darker, dirty red
  • Jacquard Salmon Red – muted dirty red, could be used for Claret

Must haves?  Jacquard New Red and Olive.

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Took sometime to get an Orange I am happy wit, with reflects in the large sample base.

  • FlyDye Hot Orange – Nice tone when dyed strong and weak – vibrant
  • FlyDye Orange – A good orange, but it is in a strong group of other oranges.
  • Veniard Summer Duck – I find this colour deeper than actual “summer duck” feather, but it is a natural warm tone that is very pleasing
  • Jacquard Gold Ochre -Stronger and more orange than Summer Duck
  • Dharma Blazing Orange – Red and orange-red, with a complex tone
  • Cushing Buttercup Yellow – Complex, natural and great when lightly dyed
  • Veniard Flo Orange – Nice Orange, but not fluorescent
  • FlyDye Fl Orange – Yes, a strong orange that almost glows

The must haves?  FlyDye Fl Orange, Dharma Blazing Orange, Cushing Buttercup Yellow and yes, the Veniard Summer Duck

Having FlyDye Hot Orange and Jacquard Gold Ochre is also a good move.

Oh yes, there are some dye references that I do have, but not picture. I want to focus on the fair to excellent. Those that are absolute failures are not noted.

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With the exception of the Veniard Golden Olive and Ginger, I have noted the other colours above.  I have created this group of natural tomes for general review.

As noted, I would consider buying the Veniard Summer Duck, Jacquard Gold Ochre, Dharma Blazing Orange, Jacquard Olive and Cushing Buttercup Yellow.

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  • Jacquard Silver Grey – use with another colour, as by itself it seems to machine like.
  • Jacquard Ecru – Natural mid-tone that is warm. I prefer this over the Silver Grey.

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  • Jacquard Yellow Sun – Bright and brilliant
  • Jacquard Bright Yellow – Paler and softer than Yellow Sun
  • Cushing Buttercup Yellow – Shows up again, as it natural spans and range is wide
  • Veniard Flo Yellow – Yellow-Green (does not show up on my screen)

What to use? For strong brilliant yellows goto Jacquard Yellow Sun and for natural tone colours, think Cushings’ Buttercup Yellow.

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I do not have a dark green, but what I do have is:

  • Jacquard Emerald – mid to dark green and if it absords, it can be closer to dark.
  • Veniard Chartreuse – dirty yellow-green
  • Jacquard Kelly Green – saturated and brilliant green
  • Jacquard Chartreuse – Yellow green and best when light in tone

I do not dye green often, but when I do I will use Jacquard’s Emerald or Kelly Green. The former if I want a bright in your face green.

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Simple answer for me is Jacquard Turquoise, but the short observations are:

  • Jacquard Turquoise – Is my interpretation of Turquoise and a goto
  • Pro Chemical Turquoise – Nice, but not seen is a metallic look – see note below
  • Dharma True Turquoise – like Pro Chemical
  • Dharma Bright Aqua – Very much between blue-green (actual sample is more green)
  • Cushing Turquoise – Similar to Dharma’s Bright Aqua, but darker and duller

Phthalo Blue and Green is a synthetic metallic pigment that has a tone I have never liked and always shunned. My wife thinks I am hyper-sensitive (crazy) to this colour, but I openly noted I have a bias, but when I detect it, I shy away from it.

In the many raw pigments that you can get, this is these are the one set of pigments I find distasteful. I clearly see this pigment within the Pro Chemical and Dharma Turquoise when dyed deep.

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And closing the reference pictures are the deep blues-violets.

  • Jacquard New Blue – Nice clean mid-blue
  • Jacquard Sky Blue – Pure with a large working tonal range.
  • Dharma Lilac – Again a pure color with a  wide working range.
  • Dharma Electric Blue – Deep and strong purple
  • Veniard Purple – Nice mid range purple
  • Veniard Lt Blue – Wants to dye dark

So which dyes do I reach for? Jacquard Sky Blue, Dharma Lilac, Dharma Electric Violat and yes, will use the Veniard Purple.

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I hope his helps others.

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Written by raspberryfisher

2017/02/02 at 02:00

Posted in Fly-Tying

Dyes – Notes and Tips

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First a shout out to Gary Tanner, who details how to dye fur and feathers for fly-tying on his blog “The Rivers Course“.

Like Gary and most other serious fly-tying enthusiasts, I bought many of my acid dyes from Dharma Trading, and use Dharma’s Brand, as well as those produce by Jacquard.

Harder to find, but can produce vibrant oranges is Fly Dye, which I bought from Anglers Workshop and believe is rebranded from Orco.  I also use dyes from Pro Chemicals.

I have found Veniards’s inconsistent, so though I can highly recommend Veniard’s head cement, I cannot fully recommend their dye. There are some coloura, I may rebuy.

Similar to Veniard’s, SuperFly also repackages dye to the fly fishing community. To date, I have been happy with SuperFly, but unfortunately SuperFly is not easy to find.

Last, as reported a few months ago, I have picked up my Mother’s Cushing’s Perfection Dye stock, and very happy so far what I have used.  These Cushing Dyes are more subtle and natural (versus saturated brilliant colours from Jacquard, Dharma, et cetera that I have acquired).

What is my tip? Keep with the dyes a white hen cape (feathers) and with each batch dye a couple of feathers, dry, identify and bag them for reference. In this way, you will have a record of what the dye will do, as names are so inaccurate when describing what is produce.

Oh yes, include a feather that was in the dye bath briefly and then over an extended period, which should be near complete absorption.

My collection to date, in a container with my dye kit.

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And some blues …

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And my notation is to list manufacturer and their identification for the dye …

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Written by raspberryfisher

2017/02/01 at 04:30

Posted in Fly-Tying

Light Bonefish Flies

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Using my recent learning and developed opinions, I tied some light flies (0.025 to 0.035g) for shallow tailing bonefish. I used wolf (white flies) and fox (tan) for the top case, and found the flies to provide a sense of translucence when in the water.

I tied one fly with small bead-chain eye,  but tests indicted that this was not necessary, as long as the fly was heavier than 0.025g.

As the style and testing progressed, what I like the best was:

  • Use the fur (smaller crinkly hair) to develop a wide case (carapace), and then overlay the hairs on top. This may require some manipulation of the hairs before hand, such that they do not trail the fly to long.
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  • Use of the mono bead-talks help the fly ride hook up.
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  • Use of ultra chenille (pink or orange) to suggest an egg sac.

Following images are presented to reflect details of the construction, as well as how a fish chasing the fly may see it.

First up is a fly using wolf and blue bead eyes to suggest crabs.

 

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Continuing with wolf, a narrow fly using hackle tips and pink egg-sac.

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And then the use of Red Fox.

 

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Written by raspberryfisher

2016/12/31 at 03:06

Posted in Fly-Tying, Saltwater